Much more to Marfa than the lights, or the art
Much more to Marfa than the lights, or the art
A Mecca in the West Texas desert?
by Michael Barnes
Tuesday, March 25, 2008

"Marfa, visited just before the South by Southwest madness, is to Austin what Austin is to Texas.
The beauty, pleasure and companionship of the larger city is refined and concentrated in this arid Davis Mountains town, compounding Central Texas informality with West Texas "live and let live" philosophy.
Still a ranching center, Marfa's two biggest claims to fame, after the mystery lights, are the arts (Chinati, Judd, galleries, etc.) and movies ("Giant," "No Country for Old Men" and "There Will Be Blood").
Beyond that, its finest restaurants, theaters, book stores, shops and hotels rival the best in Austin, enjoyed by an isolated population of just more than 2,000.
The genius of the Marfa renaissance, partly engineered by Houston lawyer Tim Crowley — by coincidence a high school friend of mine — is the careful preservation of the past while insisting on the highest standards for the future. As opposed to the kitsch art and faux historical atmosphere of Santa Fe, Marfa's appeal comes from the big sky, resplendent light, muted colors, open spaces and some of the most sensitive renovation projects anywhere on the globe.
According to locals, a good third of Marfa's migratory flocks make the six-hour drive from Austin. Our gang of five stayed at the Paisano Hotel, and our room opened onto a sun-blanched terrace over the courtyard's traditional fountain, perfect for long reads. Steven Tomlinson and Eugene Sepulveda occupied the hotel's Rock Hudson suite — a nod to "Giant" — which expands to the size of my Austin house with an attached terrace big enough for a wedding reception, or a New Year's Eve party, which the Austin pair threw here three months ago.
Walking the wide Western streets of Marfa or dining..."
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